Belgium: Cacao Beans, Chocolate Beginnings & Chocolatieries

Have you ever wondered how Belgium came to be so renowned for its high quality chocolate prowess and culture? Belgian chocolate history is a mix of colonization, ingenuity and innovation folded into a rich, delicious and creamy batter to produce the mouth – watering chocolate pieces enjoyed by all for centuries.

Sweet Backstory

We are all familiar with chocolate originating from the cacao bean, but do you know that the first cacao bean cultivation is by the Olmecs, Mayans and Aztecs in South America? The cacao bean is native to the Amazon Basin so it is no surprise that the original people of the area cultivated the bean for its use as beverage, food, currency and in sacred traditional rites.

The name “cacao” comes from the Aztec word, “cacahuatl”, where the Latin name for cocoa is Theobroma cacao, conferred upon it by a Swedish botanist, Charles Linne. Theobroma  means “Food of the Gods”.

The Spaniards discover the cacao bean in 1502 through Christopher Columbus’ voyages and realize its importance when they observe the natives offer cacao beans as a precious gift. The first chocolate drinks the Spaniards were offered were too “spicy” for them, probably because the natives mixed in vanilla and other herbs.

Fun fact: Chocolate drinks were often given as a sedative to ritual victims right before sacrifice and of course, it is assumed that herbal narcotics were included in the beverage to induce a high.

Since Spain ruled Belgium, the Netherlands and countries in the region during this era, the Spaniards brought back the cacao bean from South America to the European countries it ruled hence Belgium benefited from the sweetness of this humble but illustrious bean. Thus began Belgium’s chocolate history with its renowned chocolate innovations.

During Belgium’s colonization of Congo in the 19^th c., cacao was introduced to the area, a private colony of King Leopold, and plantations sprouted along the Congo River in the 1920s and 1930s. If you know anything about Belgium’s atrocities in Congo, then you know that enslaved labour was used in the name of the King to harvest cacao beans and to plunder natural resources for the enrichment of the Belgian monarchy.

Back in Belgium before the rise of chocolate as a confection, apothecaries and chemists were professionals that sold chocolate at the time and they were sold as medicinal tonics and sweets. In fact, in 1840, Berwaerts sold the first pressed chocolate tablets and pastilles to citizens.

Cacao Varieties

There are three distinct cacao types that give unique flavours and textures depending on their origin and each one of them is suited to particular cocoa based uses.

Criollo. Referred to as the “original cacao tree”, it is native to parts of South America but now cultivated in Central America. It accounts for up to 5-10% of global cocoa production, is easily processed and is delicate and pleasant on the tongue.

Forastero. This is currently the cacao variety cultivated in West Africa, Brazil & Ecuador and it has a flat flavour. Forastero accounts for up to 80% of global production.

Trinitario. A hybrid cacao variety from Trinidad, it is fine and suited for cocoa butter. This variety accounts for up to 10-15% of global production.

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Chocolate Country

You cannot escape chocolates and chocolatieries in Belgium, especially Brussels, even if you tried. Grand Place, Place d’Espagne, highly trafficked shopping areas and every single high-end mall are awash with master chocolate houses and artisanal chocolatieries. For example, Galeries Royales de St. Hubert, a beautiful mall near Grand Place, is full of so many chocolate houses that for once in my life, my senses are truly overwhelmed.

To experience Belgium’s chocolatieries up close and personal, you can embark on a self-guided Brussels chocolate tour by mapping out all sweet spots around Grand Place or you can wander in and out of chocolate houses on main boulevards and alleys whilst simultaneously exploring the area.

I discover some unexpected TinTin murals and other street art whilst “getting lost” around Grand Place and this area is highly recommended for its amazing architecture, quirky museums, waffle houses and chocolatieries.

If you are keen on a chocolate guide, you can find a Brussels chocolate tour at a discount using the Brusselscard, which I highly recommend if you will be visiting museums, attractions and using public transit. Click To Tweet

In addition, there is a Choco-Story Museum in the vicinity of Grand Place that tells Belgium’s chocolate history from discovery of the cacao bean by the Spaniards to current cacao bean production and chocolate consumption in Belgium and its neighbours.

The Choco-Story Museum also has praline-making demonstrations and tastings done by a pastry chef with many unique flavours. We have praline mixed with cayenne pepper and as much as I love pepper, I cannot say that I am too fond of that combination. Nevertheless, it is good to try and we try other delicious flavours too, so all is not lost.

Access to the Choco-Story Museum is free with the Brusselscard.

RELATED:  20 Historical & Fun Facts You Probably Didn’t Know About Belgium

Tip: The Brusselscard sells from the Visitor’s Centre within the Old City Hall at Grand Place. The Brusselscard comes with a map+guidebook with several Brussels chocolate tasting tours at a discount as well as mixed beer tasting and chocolate tours. Get the Brusselscard for the freebies and discounts. It is highly recommended.

Currently, there are more than 320 chocolatieries in Belgium and most are accommodating of diet restrictions. For example, I discover that Darcis has lactose and gluten-free chocolates and I am thrilled because I am semi lactose-intolerant. They even have opium flavoured chocolate available and I buy a box. Clearly, the opium is in very insignificant quantities as I am still sane and standing. Lol.

Belgium produces over 600,000 tonnes of chocolate and exports over 578,000 tonnes with 6kg of chocolates consumed per person. Phew! These are all produced from 190,000 tonnes of raw cacao that arrive at the Antwerp port from Ghana and Cote d’Ivoire in West Africa.

Just so you understand the significance of Belgium’s chocolate history, Antwerp is the second-largest cocoa port in Europe after Amsterdam, and it acts as a strategic delivery base to cocoa industries of neighbouring countries. As of 2016, Belgium imports the bulk of its cacao beans from Cote d’Ivoire with Ghana a far second and Dominican Republic a very distant third.

Chocolate Masters

We are familiar with the leading Belgian chocolate houses like the famous Neuhaus, Godiva, Leonidas, Jacques, Callebaut and Cote d’Or that lead the pack because of innovations, inventions and instrumental parts played at the inception of chocolate making in Belgium beginning in the 1850s. Now, let us see how the main players began their foray into the sticky and sweet world of chocolate.

Neuhaus. Ever wonder how our beloved pralines came to be? You guessed it. From Belgium! A regular ol’ chemist named J. Neuhaus, opened a pharmaceutical confectionery in downtown Brussels where he sold pieces of chocolate and liquorice.

As mentioned earlier, chemists and apothecaries traded in chocolate on the side as chocolates were prescribed as medicine in some form. In 1912, his grandson, Jean, begins selling chocolate cups filled with praline and a few years later in 1915, his wife invents the ballotin, the box in which pralines are carefully packed in today.

Godiva was started by three brothers in the mid-1920s in the basement of a family home in Molenbeek, Brussels. In the wake of WW 2, they called the fledgling business Godiva and opened shops in Brussels.

Leonidas. Leonidas Kestekides was born in Greece and hawked granita and sweets with his brother to survive an unstable political climate in their homeland. Soon after, he crossed into Italy to sell wine but after an accident in which he lost his merchandise & profits, he crosses the Atlantic to seek the American Dream in 1900.

In America, he harnesses his sweet passion and trains as a confectioner, where he visits Belgium for the World Exhibition in 1910 and wins over Ghent and Brussels with his sweet creations, aided by his creative nephew, Basilio. Leonidas begins the art of selling chocolates through a sliding sash window which is now their trademark.

Leonidas is known for its famous Manon praline, made with white chocolate, hazelnut and buttercream. Hmmnnn.

Do you know that until 1983, the price of Leonidas pralines was capped by the Belgian government because it was seen as a basic need – just like bread and milk? I agree! Click To Tweet

Can all governments cap chocolate prices? After all, it has been established by scientists that chocolate is great for moods and lowers hypertension, a silent killer.

In 2013, King Phillipe of Belgium announces Leonidas as Purveyors to the Royal Household for their quality and affordability. Impressive!

Cote’ d’Or. Do you know that as I was researching this sweet topic, I realize that Cote d’Or means Coast of Gold, or Gold Coast. Gold Coast is the former colonial name for present day Ghana in West Africa. How did I not connect the dots!? Of course! Ghana is renowned for its cocoa plantations sourced by famous English and French chocolate corporations and no doubt her cocoa harvest was greatly exploited during colonial times.

Cote d’Or was founded in 1883 by Charles Neuhaus (of Neuhaus chocolates) and named after the West African region that is the main source of cocoa used in chocolate and chocolate-based manufacturing. Its logo is of an elephant, said to be the beast of burden of choice used in hauling cocoa sacks in the Gold Coast back in the day.

Fun Fact: Do you know that the chocolate spread was created by Cote d’Or in 1952? We have a million thanks to accord Belgium for most of the delicious chocolate inventions we crave and love.

Callebaut. Founded in 1911, Callebaut specialized in manufacturing a “couverture” – a fine quality chocolate coating for confectionery, and invented the process of transporting liquid chocolate.

Jacques. Founded in 1896 by Antoine Jacques, he manufactured chocolate, candy and gingerbread and also invented the famous chocolate sticks. In 1936, Jacques invented the first filled chocolate bar with praline.

 

Chocolate Pieces

Pralines

How did these beloved chocolate pieces come to be? We’ve seen above how Jean Neuhaus created pralines and his wife, Louise Agostini, invented the ballotin – praline box, but how did the word “praline” ever come to be? Ever thought of that?

“Praline” was once “praslin”, dropping the “s” and acquiring an “e” over a century. In the 17^th c., a Count of Plessis-Praslin, Cesar de Choiseul, employs a cook, Clement, who creates a sweet by dipping an almond in sugar syrup. He names this new concoction “praslin” in honour of his employer.

 

Marzipan

Also known as almond paste, it is said to have originated in Venice as “marci panis” – bread of St. Mark, the patron saint of Venice, made with almonds grown in the area and cane sugar imported from Persia. Chemists of the day sold marzipan mixed with other ingredients as medicinal pastes with curative qualities for the heart and insides.

Are We Running Out of Chocolate?

*Gasp!* What did I just say about chocolate!? As reported in a renowned publication in 2018, scientists are working with chocolate corporations to gene-edit cacao seedlings to make them more resistant to a warmer and dryer climate and this caused, as I call it, the “Great Chocolate Panic of 2018”, where memes and hashtags were generated about our impending chocolate doom.

Thankfully, scientists assure us that we are not losing our sweet addiction any time soon but the threat of climate change will reduce available land for cultivation resulting in diseases and pests targeting cacao beans in West Africa, where the bulk of cacao beans originate from for global processing.

 

Sweet Summary

We see the chocolate inventions that Belgium brought forth through the centuries as well as the main chocolate houses still carrying on their sweet traditions. It is a testament to Belgium’s insistence on quality chocolate making over quantity evident in the unique tastes of each Belgian chocolate for a high quality sweet ending.

There will be cacao beans and chocolate for hopefully, a very long time, so get out there and sample some delicious Belgian chocolates for history and science sake.

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This sweet story was inspired by my visit to Choco-Story Museum in Brussels. Of course, it also helped that I am a sweet tooth and chocolate lover so really, no exertion on my part.

For more travel inspiration culture stories, read this very interesting story on the Netherlands’ colonial reach and history–>  African Diaspora Stories in the Netherlands & Former Dutch Colonies

I hope you enjoyed this sweet travel story on Belgium’s chocolate history. Don’t forget to treat yourself to a box of Belgian chocolates from Amazon and remember to pin and share.

See you on the social streets! xoxo.

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Updated 3/3/2019

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