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A Day at The Cloisters, New York City: Angels, Art & Artifact

Cloisters: Journeying Uptown

The Cloisters is a branch of The Metropolitan Museum specializing in the art and artifact of medieval Europe and Christendom of the era. It is within Fort Tryon Park in Upper Manhattan and set atop a hill overlooking the Hudson River.

On a cold February morning, mum and I take a day trip uptown from Brooklyn to see its historic art. Well, it isn’t exactly spur-of-the-moment because as a New Yorker, we are subject to the whims and caprices of the MTA. So, I check The Weekender for any ongoing track work and get the all clear for Saturday.

Wherever you start from, it’s a long way up to 190th St on the A. It takes us an hour from Brooklyn and we emerge from the 190th St. subway, walk into Fort Tryon Park and start our trudge. I keep reading signs for Cloisters and it directs us uphill but this is my first time to this part of town and I am in awe of the natural sights. I can see the natural bedrock and stone stairways in the corners of the park. Who knows how old they are?

The park is empty save for a few dog walkers but the further we ascend, the quieter it becomes. Mum is suddenly apprehensive by all this and spooks at everything. Lol. The quiet park and bare trees remind me of those crime shows where you’re screaming at the lead to “get out!” I re-assure her that we are on the right track and I can even see the top of the structure behind the stone walls.

The pictures below give an idea of the surroundings on a bone chillingly cold day.

 

History

George Gray Barnard, an American sculptor, takes credit for establishing a medieval museum near his home in Fort Washington. Over the years, he unearthed and collected medieval artifact in the French countryside that had been in ruins for centuries and fallen into the possession of farmers.

He sold his collection to John D. Rockefeller, the American philanthropist, and the latter purchased the Billings estate and other structures in the area, in addition to commissioning Fort Tryon Park for the construction of The Cloisters.

 

The Cloisters

Somehow, we burst out onto a main road and see the magnificent structure of The Cloisters looming over us. It is truly magnificent on a clear day and the stark contrast of the stone structure and blue sky is too much to resist so we have to take pictures. I notice an MTA bus in front of the entrance and I am already mapping our exit.

Facade of the Cloisters

The Cloisters Entrance

We step inside and head to the front desk. As with Met Museums, you can pay the recommended fee or a “contribution”. I pay and we head into the gift shop with notebooks, medieval books and coffee table tomes on the history of The Cloisters and New York City. I want it all!

My favourite items are the card decks of old English words and their meanings. They are a riot!

Do you know that a “lover of women” is a beard-splitter? Yes, you have the same images I do when I read the card. I come close to howling in incredulity *insert laughing, teary emoji face here*.

I love etymology and one day, will do the Googles on how they came up with those terms.

Just one of many hilarious, olde English words.

The Cloisters are so called because of the four abbeys disassembled and transported from Europe to New York City where they were reconstructed over decades.

Cuxa Cloister

This contains the Judy Black Garden and consists of beautiful pink stone from the 12th century Benedictine monastery in the Pyrenees. It is on the main level of the building and the museum’s centre-piece. The gardens bloom in summer, alas, it was winter and there are no pretty floral colours.

Nevertheless, the arches of the cloister make for a beautiful backdrop and you are transported in time to an actual medieval castle in Europe.

Cuxa Cloister

 

St. Guilhem Cloister

This 12th c. cloister is from Saint-Guilhem-le-Desert, France and it has a garden with an intricately carved fountain as a focal point. The elements date between 800 and 1660s and the carvings on the columns and shafts depict grotesque heads and representations of beasts. There is a skylight above that permits light to pour in thus illuminating the space. It is much better than if a roof had been constructed in its stead.

 

Ornate Hinged Double Doors

Within the vicinity of Cuxa Cloister is a pair of huge wood and wrought iron doors with hinges and re-inforcing bands. Per history, it is mid 12th century from the Church of St. Sulpice near Tours, France.

The door sits at the entrance to the Romanesque Hall and its elegant shape with the artwork of the bands catches my eye as they served as security for the monastery during the regional wars of the era.

Wood door with re-inforced bands

There is a group listening to a short history lesson and I catch a few snippets. Apparently, nuns were martyred! I didn’t know that, did you? Young maidens, to be nuns, were sequestered in towers by their fathers, eyes gouged and breasts cut off. Whaaaattttt!?!?

In that era, Christianity was illegal and present day scholars are still trying to figure out how it overcame its heinous past.

This snippet fascinates me greatly and I will dig deep into the interwebs during my free time to read more on this horror.

 

Limestone Sculpted Arched Doorway

As we explore, we encounter an ornately sculpted arch leading into the Langdon Chapel. It arrests me and I just have to take a picture of it.

It is originally from an abbey near Dijon, France, circa 1250, founded by the first Christian kings of France: Clovis and his son, Clothar. In 1567, the Huguenot army beheads the two kings, and in 1797 the abbey is sold as rubble for rebuilding.

Limestone sculpted doorway

The figures around the doorway are of the French Christian kings, Blessed Virgin, Christ, angels and Moses. It is made from limestone in the Gothic style and its intricate sculptures leave me in awe.

 

Langdon Chapel

Elements of this chapel are from the church of Notre Dame du Bourg, near Bordeaux, France. Founded in 1126, it was part of a Benedictine monastery and its austere stonework depicts its monastic past. The altar is the focal point of the chapel and the rays pouring in through the stained glass windows onto the altar give it a very…ethereal and serene vibe.

Langdon Chapel in the Cloisters

 

Fuentiduena Chapel

This is a 12th century apse from Fuentiduena, Spain, that was left in disrepair by the 19th century and reconstructed at The Cloisters in the 1940s.

There is a fresco from Catalonia high above depicting Mary as the Mother of God, with narrow windows present to let in the maximum amount of sunlight.

The centre-piece of the apse is the 12th c. Crucifix attributed to the Convent of St. Clara, Spain, hanging just above the altar. I’ve never seen a Crucifix that large and the looming Christ instills wonder, awe and reverence in my soul. This is my favourite artifact at The Cloisters just for the emotions it evokes in me.

Fuentiduena Chapel in the Cloisters

Hudson Views

Cloisters

These are views overlooking the Hudson from the Gothic Hall, I believe. We go through a chapel and burst through double doors to what we think is another chapel, only to hit sunlight and these amazing views!

I love the wraparound balcony and the architectural exterior stonework giving it its monastic, fortress-like appearance. You are forgiven for thinking this is France or you’ve slipped through rock to medieval England a la Outlander 🙂

It is obvious why I consider The Cloisters as one of the unmissable experiences here in New York City. The environment is constructed to transport you body, mind and spirit away from modernity into medieval times.

I read several medieval fiction (a.k.a historical romances. Le sigh) as a teenager and the masonry, art and architecture are exactly what was pictured in my feverish teenage imagination. Lol.

Departure

I have my bearings and we find our way to the entrance because there is no way we are hiking downhill to 190th Street.

The bus arrives in a jiffy, we get on and I discover that we are in the 200ths. Wow! We hiked uphill from 190th to about 207th Street. Impressive!

I love the Fort Tryon area and the New Yorker in me is already looking at apartment buildings for vacancies. If I find affordable housing here, I’ll move in a heartbeat.

I write about my housing hunt in the city here, how I snagged my apartment and how the rent increases annually. I would not snub affordable rent on 200th Street. No ma’am!

I hope that you enjoy this magnificent structure but experiences are better in person so off you go!

Comment and share generously! xx

Sharing is caring! xx

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61 Comments

  • Reply
    Jenia
    March 10, 2018 at 7:28 am

    I just finished a book where the characters talked about their love of the cafe in the Cloisters! So cool to read about it and see the photos!

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    Alphonse Zempel
    March 13, 2018 at 12:03 pm

    This is fun! I am really fond of this anniversary picture. Have a nice day.

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    May 2, 2018 at 10:58 am

    […] fee, which means that if you have $1 to spare, you can be let in. These include the Met itself, The Cloisters, Brooklyn Museum, Bronx Museum and many […]

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    Daisy
    June 5, 2018 at 4:55 am

    Wow this place looks absolutely beautiful and amazing!!! I’m loving all of your beautiful photographs!!

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      admin
      June 6, 2018 at 2:05 am

      Thank you so much!

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    Vivian
    June 5, 2018 at 7:42 am

    The leafless trees in this park definitely gave me the chills! Bookmarking this for my NY trip this autumn!

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      admin
      June 6, 2018 at 2:04 am

      Oooohhh!! I’m so glad you’re coming! I tell everyone to visit this away from the bustle of Manhattan. Fort Tryon park is also very serene (as you can see in the pics lol). Thanks for reading.

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    Mr Worldling
    June 5, 2018 at 11:28 am

    I love the MM! Brings to life so many different places and times of civilisation. Thanks for the “review” on the Cloisters. A definite must-go to anyone visiting NYC

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      admin
      June 6, 2018 at 2:03 am

      Yup! We love MM here :0). Thanks for reading.

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    Vasundhra
    June 5, 2018 at 4:59 pm

    To be honest, I will also get the same feeling after entering a quiet part and seeing such bare trees. It does look like a place from a crime show. But it is good to read that you liked the Fort Tryon area!

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      admin
      June 6, 2018 at 2:02 am

      Lol. My mum would love you :0) She was happy when we left the wooded area and encountered tarred road lol.

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    Nina
    June 5, 2018 at 7:15 pm

    your writing style is superb and impressive. I learned quite a lot of things by reading this post 🙂 thank you for sharing 🙂

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      admin
      June 6, 2018 at 2:01 am

      Thank you aplenty, Nina!

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    Phoebe
    June 5, 2018 at 10:48 pm

    I’m in New York but I haven’t been there. Thanks for the pictures. I should check it out.

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      admin
      June 6, 2018 at 2:01 am

      You really should! You won’t feel like you’re in the city at all. Like you fell through time.

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    Claire
    June 6, 2018 at 2:07 am

    I just love museums and traveling. I am actually going back to NY this August, gotta check this out, looks interesting!

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    Emily
    June 6, 2018 at 3:52 am

    This looks like a beautiful place to visit and hard to believe it’s in New York! I’ve been to New York but only had a few days so we stuck to the touristy things but this would be fun to check out on my next trip.

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    Geraline Batarra
    June 6, 2018 at 4:22 am

    This is such a nice post never heard about it but still I enjoy reading about the history of this beautiful places. I hope to to visit this and to see how wonderful this place.

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    Blair villanueva
    June 6, 2018 at 4:52 am

    This is another unique adventure. How come we dont use those old English words? They are interesting.

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    Elizabeth O
    June 6, 2018 at 1:31 pm

    It looks like you had such a good time visiting the Cloisters. Your review was really pleasant to read and I enjoyed it a lot

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    Dalene Ekirapa
    June 6, 2018 at 2:32 pm

    The museum looks great! I’m loving the architecture of the whole place; right from the Cloisters and the Chapel which look too anciently beautiful.

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      admin
      June 7, 2018 at 3:16 am

      Thanks a mil, Dominique!

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    Polly
    June 7, 2018 at 12:57 pm

    First of all, your style is unique and I enjoyed it. It’s like reading a history book.
    I’m a fan of history and baroque architecture and I think this is an interesting place to go explore but I would feel the same as you did. I would defo add this to my bucketlist.

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      admin
      June 7, 2018 at 9:38 pm

      Many thanks, Polly. 😉

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    Chloe @callmecoco.co
    September 10, 2018 at 10:49 am

    Thank you for this detailed post. The chapel seems very impressive!

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    Diana
    September 10, 2018 at 3:26 pm

    I would love to visit New York, but have never heard of this attraction before! It looks really cool! I love history, so will have to add this to my list of things to check out should I ever get a chance to travel there.

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    Melissa Bradbury
    September 10, 2018 at 7:46 pm

    This looks like an amazing day out and wish that I lived close to somewhere like the Cloisters. New York is definitely on my bucket list.

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    Marjie Mare
    September 10, 2018 at 9:18 pm

    This is absolutely a beautiful place that I would love to see. Your pictures are also amazing, thanks for sharing.

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    matthew
    September 10, 2018 at 9:20 pm

    Great and interesting post…very detailed. Each time i visit your blog i tend to learn new things, cool blog

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      admin
      September 10, 2018 at 10:05 pm

      Thanks Matt. Much appreciated. xoxo

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    The Panicked Foodie
    September 10, 2018 at 10:15 pm

    Definitely going to need to add this to my NYC bucket list! Yet another place I never visited when I went to NYC. And yes, the Hudson Valley is beautiful! Lot of great hiking there 🙂

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    Esperanza Scotto
    September 12, 2018 at 2:56 am

    Wow, what a stunning place! I love the old architecture 🙂

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    September 13, 2018 at 6:23 am

    That is such a great place to explore in New York. I’ve never been there would surely love to check this place out. Thanks for suggesting.

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    September 24, 2018 at 10:28 pm

    Wow this looks like a great place to visit. The buildings are beautiful and now I want to check out those cards!!

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    New York never disappoints with gem locations such as this one! I love the doorway and love the historical piece of the post.

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      January 3, 2019 at 2:56 pm

      It really is a gem. It transports you to Europe in a jiffy!

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    It looked like I was taken around to see those lovely places. Enjoyed reading it. 😊

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    Andrea
    January 3, 2019 at 4:31 am

    What beautiful pictures and scenery. I have a cousin that lives in this area. Next time I visit her, I will suggest going here.

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    January 3, 2019 at 6:15 am

    Great photos and great info on the post~! Wish I could get a chance to visit NY one day. =D

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    January 3, 2019 at 10:05 pm

    This totally doesn’t look like NYC! I am headed there in a few weeks and may head here. So fun!

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      admin
      January 4, 2019 at 2:40 am

      Lols. Ikr?! I felt like I time travelled to Europe!

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    January 4, 2019 at 3:19 am

    Amazing how you can visit NYC a million times and see something different every time! Such beautiful photos…

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    January 4, 2019 at 3:47 am

    Everything seems so beautiful. I can’t believe in NJ for almost 20 years and never knew this place. I will sure live that experience next time I go to NY.

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    I always wanted to go to New York. And now I, even more, want to go after seeing these photos and reading your post.

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